Bottom Bracket checkout

Ready for the first National champs race I had to pull the BB off to fit the Chain device for the 1×9 setup. A few creaks from the EBB when putting down the power led me to stip out the EBB too, as I’d read that cleanliness was key to stopping the noise.

The FSA crank was already reluctant to spin, exactly one month of use and 473 miles, thats crap even by external bearing standards. Stripping down it was obvious the external spacer provides no sealing at all, the drive side bearing could not be turned by hand. MEGA EXO indeed.

FSA bearings - what seals

Prising off the bearing (number 24377-2RS01) seal and spraying with releasant got it moving again, and plenty of grit came out. Dosent look good for winter Singlespeed use. Reassembly with plenty of marine grease between the spacer/cap and bearing might help.

The Phil Wood EBB (R.I.P to the man himself who died this week age 81)  saw the light. It’s internally relieved and has two main securing faces, hopefully these align with the clamps. 

Phil Wood half link EBB

This fuzzy picture just about shows that the suface has scored whilst its been adjusted. there were some slight highspots on the inside of the EBB clamp. These have now been flattened with wetndry and the EBB fitted to a super clean and greased hole. Sticking with 12NM clampup for now.

Greased up ready for re-fit

The crank tightened up nicer this time, 45NM, but if the ceramic bearings are this poor we could be looking for a better option pretty soon. Wonder if these will suit Wood again, or is FSA’s take on standards another problem. BETD might help Did some digging and found this, oh Cock!

The FSA BB8200 (meant for K-Force Light) uses a 6 mm width bearing. This allows us to make the bottom bracket outside to outside dimension more narrow providing room for a wave washer. The BB8000 (meant for K-Force) does indeed use a 7 mm width bearing, yet its design does not allow for use of a Chris King bottom bracket.

However our popular alloy cranksets, the Gossamer Rd. and the Energy Rd. are compatible with the Chris King bottom bracket (made to Shimano compatible dimensions). These cranks use BB6000, this BB’s dimensions are compatible with Shimano.

4 thoughts on “Bottom Bracket checkout

  1. Ditto on the FSA 24377 bearings being crap. My girlfriend and I did the same CX race last week-a complete mudfest. We hosed off both bikes, then dried them off as best we could. One week later-my FSA $200 ceramic bearing BB had a seized drive side, her 30 SRAM GXP was totally fine. I also do not like the fact that they have small balls in the bearing, AND fewer of them kept evenly spaced with some plastic retainer. Seems like a tricky way to save weight and money on their part.

  2. Hmm..Ditto..and my FSA (Mega Exo) bearings were part of the WMB gear of the year prize..reckon mine lasted less than 100 miles..but problem only became apparent when I swopped the FSA bearing out and replaced it with a Hope and old deore double and bash (with fewer teeth for winching up hills)..using the FSA bearings and double on my hardtail..I had assumed that in taking the bearings out and swopping them I’d damaged the alignment of the bearings..seems that may not have been the case then?

    1. Well to add to that I have to say once i’d done the initial investigation above i re-assembled the unit with some marine waterproof grease and have been using the Bb ever since.

      Now two years and about 5000 miles later i’ve just taken it back off and its still spinning smoothly, The only problem was that the wavy sprung washer has now rotted away, but the bearings are still good.
      I put this down to smearing the seals on the outside of the bearings heavily with grease regularily.

      Just have to try and source a new wavy washer now ready for service again.

  3. The ongoing saga of the FSA BB..
    FSA replaced the BB bearingsback in May 2012..and the new bearings lasted..less than 100 miles..
    So I returned the bearings and the cranks..a brand new set arrived within a week. This time I got my LBS t install the bearings etc….100 miles later..they’re loose again. This time I checked on U-tube and found a video of someone replacing FSA bearings after dismantling cleaning and re-greasing..they used stick the bearings in the gave that a try after dismantling and re-greasing….the bearings are still in 3 rides later..but I have to loosen off the arm clamp bolts, retorque and then re-tighten the two crank arm bolts..even with loctite after every ride as they still work loose on a couple of hours ride…this does not bode well for the future..It’s a shame as the rings and set up is stiff and change well..and now that summer (and dryer weather) is here I might get to spend more time on the bigger ring 🙂

Leave a Reply

Fill in your details below or click an icon to log in: Logo

You are commenting using your account. Log Out /  Change )

Google photo

You are commenting using your Google account. Log Out /  Change )

Twitter picture

You are commenting using your Twitter account. Log Out /  Change )

Facebook photo

You are commenting using your Facebook account. Log Out /  Change )

Connecting to %s